Sunday, January 21, 2018

Chefs Everywhere Say Thanks to Paul Bocuse


The gastronomic world reacted today to the news that legendary French chef, Paul Bocuse, has died, aged 91.

Bocuse was one of the most influential chefs of his generation, helping shape and push the refinement of Nouvelle cuisine under his mentor Fernand Point at La Pyramide restaurant in Vienne, France. Later, in his own restaurants, he created numerous dishes, styles, techniques, approaches and presentations that rippled across French cuisine and beyond.

In 1956 Bocuse started work at his family's restaurant, Auberge du Pont de Collonges in Lyon and within two years recieved his first Michelin star. By 1965 the restaurant held three Michelin stars, an accolade it retains to this day.

In terms of training, there isn’t an important chef in the modern day cooking landscape who wasn’t somehow directly taught or inspired by the work of Bocuse - a chef who continued throughout his career to open successful restaurants around the world.

In 2011 he was named Chef of The Century by the Culinary Institute of America, an award his also received in 1989 from Gault-Millau - showing just how far the influence of one chef spanned. Many of the great kitchen mentors of today - the likes of Thomas Keller and Daniel Boulud - were formed working alongside Bocuse in one of his kitchens.
In 1987, the chef was responsible for the launch of the world famous culinary competition, Bocuse d’Or,which sees teams from around the world compete in a biannual event now referred to as the Olympics of cooking. The competition alone has highlighted some of the best talent in the industry and pushed the likes of the U.S to create all-star teams of chefs to bring home gold for their country. 
As the food world comes to terms with the passing of such an influential and inspiration icon, many of the world’s best chefs are expressing their own sentiments towards the news. 

Saturday, January 20, 2018

FISKESUPPE, How To Make This Classic Scandinavian Fish Soup


If you are a fan of New England clam chowder you'll love fiskesuppe, a traditional fish soupenjoyed throughout Norway and Sweden.

This fish soup owes its white color to the addition of cream, an essential ingredient of many North European recipes. It also contains cod and salmon (and sometimes prawns), all freshly caught in the Atlantic waters. Are you curious to try it?

There are several versions of fiskesuppe throughout Scandinavia so we asked chef Rebecca Varjomaa, of Bjork Swedish Brasserie in Milan, to share her recipe for the perfect fiskesuppe.


  • Wild salmon (180 g) (6 oz)
  • Fresh cod (180 g) (6 oz)
  • Fresh dill (to taste)
  • Potatoes (200 g) (7oz)
  • Fresh liquid cream (400 g) (14 oz)
  • Carrots (250 g) (9 oz)
  • Fish broth (250 ml) (1 cup)
  • Salt to taste
  • Pepper as needed


Cut the salmon into small pieces no larger than 1 cm (1/2 inch) and keep aside. Do the same with the cod.

Cut the potatoes and carrots into squares of 1 cm (1/2 inch), then boil them in salted water. Once drained, put them aside.

Add the cream, fish stock, potatoes and boiled carrots to a pan with high sides. Add salt and pepper in moderation. Bring it all to about 85 degrees (185F) for 3 minutes, so that broth and cream mix well. Then lower the heat and let it simmer.

When serving the soup, place the slices of salmon and cod on the bottom of the plate; then pour the cream broth with potatoes and carrots. Add a few leaves of fresh dill.

André Chiang's Inspirational Dishes


Have a look at some delicious dishes prepared by chef André Chiang, famous for his unique interpretation of French cooking.
André Chiang's Inspirational Dishes

With André Chiang set to close his eponymous two-Michelin-star restaurant in Singapore on 14 February in search of new challenges – as he told us back in October – an almost retrospective look at just what makes Restaurant André so special feels apt.

Consistently in the upper echelons of the World’s 50 Best and Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants lists, the restaurant is a showcase for Chiang’s unique interpretation of French cooking developed over years working in some of France’s best kitchens, with chefs such as Michel Troisgros, Alain Ducasse, and Pierre Gagnaire. It was there that he first started formulating his Octaphilosophy approach to cooking – identifying eight elements (Pure, Salt, Artisan, Texture, South, Unique, Memory, and Terroir), and designing dishes around them.

Picture above: Unique - Duck tongue, cockscomb, Kyoto aubergine © Edmond Ho

In every one of his dishes, Chiang says, this principle is “strictly respected,” with the “intention” of the dish being perhaps the most important thing to consider. To be ‘Pure’ a dish must be raw and unseasoned, for example a dish of peach, grapes and pink coriander – simple, beautiful.

Picture above: Pure - Peach, Grapes, Pink Coriander © Edmond Ho

Picture above: Pure - Mais' Version 1: Cream, Silk, Burdock © Edmond Ho

Conversely, for ‘Salt” the dish must have what Chiang refers to as a “shadow of saltiness” – think anchovies, olives, ham, soy sauce, or seaweed.

Picture above: Salt - Autumn Tree: Cabbage, Scallop © Edmond Ho

The first dish he ever developed on his own, a ‘Memory,’ one that is still on the menu today, is a foie gras jelly with black truffle coulis that “won the respect of a full-French kitchen.” Perhaps the most important stage of this dish is to carefully monitor the cooking and speed when whipping the foie gras (see the picture at the top of the article).

Picture above: Unique - Stuffed Onion, Mushroom, Mountain Caviar© Edmond Ho

Picture above: Unique - Watermelon Skin, Thyme, Fleur d'Oranger © Edmond Ho

Then there are the non-alcoholic fermented juices that make up the juice-pairing menu. The combinations are intriguing: yellow beets, liquorice and green strawberry, and pine needle, charcoal and apple being just two.

Picture above: Fermentation Jus 9 by Mia_RA © Edmond Ho

Ask him to name a recent dish that he is most proud of and he doesn’t hesitate: Ice Cream Uncle, a dish inspired by the elderly ice cream sellers of Singapore, which Chiang says has both “Meaningful intension” and a “Social contribution” – the restaurant makes a monthly donation so that the ice cream sellers can continue their tradition.

Picture above: Artisan - Miso, Duo Corn, Thyme Oil © Edmond Ho

Picture above: Artisan - Camembert, Hay Ice Cream © Edmond Ho

Parabere Forum: Celebrating Women in the Food Industry


The international discussion forum designed to give a platform to women working in the food industry is due to return from 4 to 5 March in Malmo, Sweden this year.

Parabere Forum, is back with a third edition building on its success, bringing together top opinion shapers from across the sector will tackle this year's theme of "Edible Cities" - examining the critical relationship between urbanisation and food security throughout the world.

Debates and speeches will include opinion leaders, food activists, international scientists, farmers and top female chefs from across five continents.

Three Michelin star French chef, Anne-Sophie Pic, Lara Gilmore from Osteria Francescana and soul for food, pioneering world-famous Danish chef René Redzepi and world-class British mixologist Alex Kratena are just a few of this year's guest speakers in an impressive line-up.

For the full list of speakers click here. Tickets can also be purchased through the website.

A dinner at Eataly Smeraldo Milano will also be held in collaboration with Parabere Forum on 2 February. Guest chefs include Elena Arzak, Massimo Bottura, Ritu Dalmia, Antonia Klugmann and many others - while tickets are currently sold out, you can always put your name on a waiting list.

What: Parabere Forum 2018

When: 4 March to 5 March, 2018

Where: Palladium Malmö · Malmö, Sweden


Friday, January 19, 2018

Watch a Teaser for David Chang’s New Netflix Show



David Chang is to star in a new food show to air on Netflix, which will see him travelling the world exploring the joys of comfort food.

Called Ugly Delicious, the show launches on 23 February and also features Lucky Peach co-founder Peter Meehan. It’s Chang’s first show since season one of The Mind of a Chef back in 2012.

Chang will be hanging and eating with chefs, writers, artists and entertainers at their favourite spots to chat authenticity in food and how it can bridge divides. “Food is something we all have in common. It’s an essential part of who we are and how we create connections across cultures,” says Chang.

Spread across eight episodes the show will feature cameos from the likes of chefs René Redzepi and Roy Choi, and food writer Ruth Reichl, according to Grub Street.

Watch a clip below. Expect “strong opinions and honest conversations about food.”

David Chang is also busy putting the finishing touches to his first ever restaurant opening in Los Angeles. Majordomo is one of our hottest new restaurant openings of 2018.

Sachertorte, The Story Behind Austria's Most Famous Dessert


Who, during a weekend in Vienna, has not indulged in a tasty slice of Sachertorte? This rich chocolate dessert, recognized all over the world as a gastronomic symbol of Austria, is among the most copied by pastry shops but its original recipe is still jealously kept in Vienna, where it was born.

But who created this legendary dessert consisting of two layers of spongy chocolate cake, with a layer of apricot jam or cherries inside, covered entirely in a dark chocolate glaze? And where can you enjoy a slice of the original Sachertorte? Let's find out more about the history of the legendary Sacher cake.


We owe the invention of the Sachertorte to pastry chef Franz Sacher who created it in 1832 in the capital of Austria. Sacher was asked by Prince Klemens von Metternich, heir to a wealthy family of hoteliers of Jewish origin, to prepare a special dessert for a guest because the official court pastry chef was ill.

Sacher, then 16, loved chocolate very much, so he decided to use it for his recipe: the result was this extraordinary dessert that, legend has it, made Metternich rejoice at the first taste.


Since its invention, the Sacher cake successfully spread throughout Austria, then to the rest of the world. The original recipe is protected by a trademark but that hasn't stopped other bakers from attempting to create their own Sachertorte.

The Hotel Sacher in Vienna is the only one that produces the 100% authentic Sachertorte (with a trademark, strictly in chocolate, applied on the cake). The hotel produces over 270,000 pieces a year, which can also be purchased online.


Aside from Hotel Sacher in Vienna, the original Sachertorte can also be found at the Hotel Sacher in Salzburg, the Sacher Café in Innsbruck and Graz; and at the airport duty-free shop in Vienna.

A curiosity: there is only one other country in the world, in addition to Austria, where you can find the Sachertorte: Italy. The Italian town of Bolzano is home to the Sacher Shop, where the iconic cake and other sweets are on sale .


As we alreaady mentioned, the recipe of the original Sachertorte is protected by trademark, but you can always try to make your own personal version at home. Learn how to make Sachertorte with our step-by-step recipe.

Cooking the Classics: Tarte Tatin


A closer look at the Tarte Tatin, the traditional French upside down caramelized apple tart very easy to prepare.
Cooking the Classics: Tarte Tatin

I remember Tarte Tatin from youthful summers in France, where my mother was teaching, while my father and I did a lot of eating. This is perhaps the most ubiquitous of French desserts, along with chocolate mousse, to be found at restaurants grand and humble, from Brittany to the Languedoc. I remember having eaten Tarte Tatin flambéed in calvados, an apple brandy that brings out the inherent apple-ness of the dish, and topped with vanilla ice cream, which runs down the edges of the still-warm tart.

I’ll state this straight from the start: Tarte Tatin is the easiest recipe I believe I’ve made over the many years of this column. I am a fool in the kitchen, so I can safely say that this is fool-proof. Normally, this column is studded with dashes of comedy relief - my burning this, or setting fire to that, or grumbling about having to clean too many dishes after. This one I got right the first time, and every time, and it’s always been a hit with guests and family.


The name of Tarte Tatin comes from the Hotel Tatin, which is just south of Paris, in Lamotte-Beuvron. A pair of sisters, Caroline and Stephanie Tatin, ran the hotel in the early 1880s. Stephanie, the story goes, was baking for the day’s meal, and had intended to make a traditional apple pie (with crust on top and on the side, not just the bottom). Distracted that day, she left the sliced apples (two regional varieties, Calville and Reine des Reinettes) to sauté in butter and sugar too long, and they began to burn. To avoid them browning further and to turn the sauté into steaming, she tossed a round of pie dough atop the apples, and then slid the whole thing, pan and all, into a hot oven. The result, a tarte (with crust only on the bottom) rather than pie, was a big hit and word traveled, making it a draw for guests, who would journey to the Hotel Tatin to taste the unusual delicacy.

The historians who are suspicious of cute origin stories like this one say that a tart like this was already traditional in this region of Sologne, but I’m the sort of historian who, given a split opinion, tends to prefer the cute origin story, to the murkier, more open-ended one.

The fame of the Tarte Tatin was sealed when the fabled chef of Maxim’s, Louis Vaudable, wrote about it with such glowing praise, in a quote worth quoting in full:

“I used to hunt around Lamotte-Beuvron as a young man, and one day discovered, in a tiny hotel run by a pair of old ladies, a marvelous dessert, referred to as Tarte Solgnote on the menu. I asked the staff about the recipe, but they would not tell me. Not easily dissuaded, I came back and managed to get myself hired as a gardener for the hotel. I was fired in just three days later, as it was clear that I was incapable of even planting cabbage, but that was enough time for me to infiltrate the kitchen and extract its secrets. I brought the recipe back to Paris and put it on my menu as Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin.”

A great story, but the stuff of legend. The Tatin sisters died in 1911 and 1917, and the Vaudable family only bought Maxim’s in 1932. But the glitter of the story survived and helped make this tasty, super easy dessert omnipresent throughout France.


The recipe of Tarte Tatin is so concise that, unusually, I can actually include the recipe here.

Behold: Preheat oven to 180/375. Peel and slice apples into 1-2 cm thick slices. Rub butter all over the bottom of a sauté pan (preferably a cast-iron one). Scatter brown sugar atop the buttered pan. Lay apple slices flat inside the buttery, sugar pan, in a pattern if you like, and as tightly as possible. Put on the burner. The butter and sugar will start to bubble around the apple slices, browning them. Scatter some cinnamon and a splash of brandy, rum or calvados (if you’re being authentic) atop the apple slices as they bubble.

Then lay pie dough over the apple slices, so they are covered, tucking the edges of the dough around the edges of the apples on the extremities of the pan. Let it cook a few minutes longer, now tented in dough. Then transfer the pan directly to the oven and cook until the top of the dough is nicely golden-browned. When it’s ready, remove from the oven and place an inverted plate over the tart. Then flip the whole thing over, so the tart ends up falling out of the pan, right-side-up, onto the plate. Voilà, you’re done!

This is one I’ve now made with my daughters, aged 2.5 and 4.5, which is a testament to how simple it is. I even make my own alternative varieties, caramelizing bananas and pears along with the apples. I call it Tart Charney. If only I can get a famous chef to write about going undercover to steal my recipe, we’ll really be onto something!

Tarocco Blood Oranges, the Sweetest of Citrus


Native to Italy, tarocco blood oranges are one of the most popular orange varieties, not only for their characteristic ruby red blush but their superior sweetness and high vitamin C content.

The distinctive yet delicately flavoured citrus fruit originally hails from the southern Italian island of Sicily where they still grow on the fertile slopes of Mount Etna.

This sicilian blood orange with a difference is not only prized for its juicy sweetness, but the enticing ruby red flesh with a distinctive berry like taste- a phenomenon bought about by the release of natural red pigments (anthocyanins) produced during dramatic temperature fluctuation. Hence chilly winters are perfect for yielding the most colourful oranges.

Blood orange nutrition

And if that weren't reason enough to tear open a tarocco, these blood oranges are also an excellent source of vitamin C, as well as being rich in antioxidants and containing potassium, folate and dietary fiber.

Blood orange season

Blood oranges grow during the summer and mature in the autumn, ready to harvest in December and January, still by hand according to tradition.

WATCH: check out the S.Pellegrino live cam to a Sicilian citrus grove: watch your citrus.

Types of Blood Orange

Tarocco have also been successfully naturalised in the US where they grow happily in Florida. But if you can't get your hands on some of these delicately flavoured treats, you can always try Moro and Sanguinello which are also prized for their reddish rind and dark, juicy flesh.

Tarocco Blood Orange Recipes

Traditionally tarocco oranges can be enjoyed just as they are, although in Sicily they are also popular made into a fresh and spectacular salads. Try this recipe for a traditional Sicilian orange salad.

Or, if you want to try another twist on dessert try making wonderfully refresing jelly with your tarocco oranges - here's the recipe for blood orange and prosecco jelly.

If you're looking for a hot drink with a twist, try enjoying blood oranges with Mint Tea - here's the recipe

If you have a sweet tooth try baking your tarocco oranges into a stunning citrus tart decorated with blood orange slices - here's the recipe.

Lasagne with Romanesco Cauliflower and Broccoli


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An easy lasagna recipe with white Romanesco Cauliflower and Broccoli: learn how to prepare at home this amazing vegetarian recipe.


  • Broccoli 500 g, separated into florets
  • Cauliflower 500g, romanesco, separated into florets
  • Olive oil
  • Garlic 4 cloves, finely chopped
  • Thyme 1/2 bunch
  • Anchovies 6, chopped
  • Chilli Pinch, dried, flakes (optional)
  • Lasagna sheets X 2
  • Ricotta 500 ml
  • Parmesan 200 g, grated
  • Mozzarella 200 g
  • Salt
  • Pepper


  • Preparation time40 m
  • Cooking time30 m
  • Recipe categoryFirst course
  • Recipe yield6
  • Recipe cuisine Italian


Preheat the oven to 190C / gas 5.

Boil the Romanesco cauliflower and broccoli for 5 minutes, then drain, reserving the cooking water.

Heat 3 tbsp oil in a large pan and add the garlic, thyme, anchovies and chilli flakes if using.

Allow the anchovies to melt, then stir in the drained florets and 4-5 tbsp of cooking water.

Cover partially with a lid and cook very gently for around 20 minutes until the vegetables are very tender and intense in flavour.

Lightly crush and season, then leave to cool.

Lay 4 of the lasagne sheets in a generously buttered baking dish.

Stir the ricotta and half the parmesan into the cooled vegetables then spread half the mixture over the pasta.

Top with 4 sheets of pasta, repeat and finish with a layer of pasta.

Place the sliced mozzarella and parmesan over the top of the pasta, drizzle with oil and bake for about 30 minutes, until bubbling and golden.

Serve hot or warm.

Identità Golose Milan 2018 Explores The Human Factor



The Human Factor is the theme of this year's Identità Golose 2018 in Milan from Saturday the3rd of March to Monday the 5th and sponsored by Acqua Panna and S.Pellegrino.

Tickets are now available online here.

The 14th edition of the international chef congress will bring a number of world-class chefs to Italy's growing food destination, where the emphasis will be given to the "conviviality in dining and on human relations in creating food."

“We want to focus on human relations, on chefs as humans and on all those who surround their work, from the kitchen to dining room, to the relationship with clients and before that with artisans and suppliers. It’s time to move the attention to the dining occasion" explains organiser Paolo Marchi.

The three packed days also boast a host of masterclasses on Italian favourites, like cheese, gelato, pasta and pizza plus wider discussions around the art of hospitality. All presented by an impressive line-up of culinary greats from Italy and around the world.

Here's a flavour of what's to come. (For the day to day detail see the agenda at the bottom of the page.)


Auditorium Hall - Discover the cuisine from the region of Calabria in the morning session.
Dossier Dessert takes to the stage in the afternoon with a focus on some of the most interesting pastry-chefs in Europe in the afternoon.

In Sala Blu 1
Identità di Formaggio takes to the stage in the morning with three Italian chefs showcasing the beauty of cheese.
Identità di Gelato takes over in the afternoon where seven Italian chefs will showcase the delights of Italy's favourite sweet export.

Sala Blu 2
Identità Naturali - vegan and vegetarian food will come under the spotlight with an international line-up of 10 chefs, from the US to Italy.

Sala Gialla 3
Identità di Champagne features three special moments dedicated to pairings with champagne and recipes from three great Italian female chefs.

Auditorium Hall
Il Fattore Umano, the Human Factor, will be celebrated with great Italian and international chefs giving their thoughts on the subject, including speakers; Massimiliano Alajmo, Niko Romito, Enrico Bartolini, Ana Roš, Antonia Klugmann, Oriol Castro with Mateu Casañas and Eduard Xatruch, Moreno Cedroni and Paolo Brunelli.

In Sala Blu 1
Identità di Pasta will showcase one of Italy's most loved foods presented by both Italian and foreign chefs

Sala Blu 2
Identità di Sala which will focus on the importance of service and on its relationship with the kitchen. Speakers include Will Guidara from Eleven Madison Park, NY and Josep Roca from Spain.

Sala Gialla 3
Identità di Champagne will continue with a female focus on champagne paired with fine dining.

Auditorium Hall
Il Fattore Umano, the Human Factor continues to be explored by speakers: Massimo Bottura, Carlo Cracco, Yannick Alléno, Virgilio Martinez, Clare Smyth, Enrico Crippa, Riccardo Camanini

In Sala Blu 1
Pasticceria Italiana Contemporanea will debut, with a whole day dedicated to knowledge and recipes from pastry-shops and pastry-making in restaurants.

Sala Blu 2
Identità di Pane e Pizza - a closer look at bread and pizza with a special emphasis on leavened products.

Sala Gialla 3
Identità di Champagne with the pairings from the last three featured female-chefs.

See the full 3-day programme below:

This Chef Makes His Own Bathroom Soap to Complement His Food


It’s often said that you can tell a lot about a restaurant by the state of its bathrooms. But one chef is taking attention to detail in this respect to the next level, by producing his own soap that compliments the food being served.

Adam Aamann, who owns several restaurants in Copenhagen where he is famous for making smørrebrød, the traditional Danish open sandwich, cool again, while also a regular on Danish TV and a published author, started making his own soaps last year. So far he’s produced one mixing orange, lemon, rosemary and bergamot; and another of thyme, lemon, ceder and bergamot, the idea being that the diner returns from the bathroom smelling of the herbs used in the kitchen. “My soaps are made using the fragrance universe I love in my kitchen - herbs, citrus fruits and precious wood sorts,” he says.

Above left to right: Adam Aamann in his garden; Smørrebrød with marinated herring with lemon, kohlrabi and cheese (photos: Columbus Leth)

Aamann handmakes the soaps in his kitchen at home, using all organic and sustainable ingredients, including essential oils from his herb garden. Almond oil gives the soap moisturising properties. “I created the soaps as a consequence of my irritation with the desiccating soaps often found in professional kitchens, where one - after all - washes one’s hands quite frequently,” he says.

So far the soaps can only be found at Aamann’s 1921, the chef’s newest restaurant, which opened in August 2017, and though he has no plans to start selling the soaps, he will be experimenting with new recipes and increasing production so he has enough to fill all his restaurants. They will, however, always remain complimentary to the food. “They must tell a story of good ingredients,” he says.

Chefs Everywhere Say Thanks to Paul Bocuse

CHEFS EVERYWHERE SAY THANKS TO PAUL BOCUSE The gastronomic world reacted today to the news that legendary French chef, Paul Bocuse , has...